Thursday, July 10, 2008

Kumquat Lasagna

This happens to me every time I live abroad for a period longer than a couple of months. I'm kind of confused by this pattern. I stay up really late for no apparent reason, even though I am actually really exhausted and a little sicky and have to get up early for work. I surf the web for really inane stuff, read blogs of friends of friends, etc. I do NOT do anything that would even threaten to border on the constructive, like pay attention to the very riveting FINANCIAL ACCOUNTING! module I am supposed to do before school starts, read one of the five books I've started and would really like to finish so I don't have to lug them home, or even just respond to emails. I don't want to do any of that. After the perusal of a friend of a friend's blog bored me, I clicked on a link to to the first friend's website. That site sparked in me some sort of nostalgia and reminded me of what I DO actually want to do. And that is this:

When we were younger, my brother Hans Tang and I would have these Garfield drawing contests. Sometimes it was Calvin and Hobbes and sometimes our next door neighbor Brian Sharpe would play as well. Those were our favorite comics growing up. In retrospect maybe they just were Hans Tang's favorites, and only by association mine. I mean I followed him around a lot maybe, but whatever. I'm my own person now. And I don't read Piers Anthony novels anymore, in case you were wondering. Anyways these contests were a lot of fun. Neither of us remember who was better, which is kind of an enormous anomaly for us and perhaps telling. I think sometimes we would make our dad be the judge. He's an honest guy.

So that is what I want to do. I want to have a Garfield drawing contest. And I want my dad to be the judge. Nothing more, just that. That is all I want in my life right now.


I guess one could call this bliss.




I would like to recreate this one and replace Pookie with my very own beloved Bunny Ears.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

I went to Laos...

And this is what I saw:

Temples paved in gold




Lush prettiness




Turquoise lagoons that begged to be swum in


Buddhas meditating in caves


Mini-monks receiving alms


And two d.o.b.s taking lots of pictures with Thai tourists.

SexpatAdvisory.com Preview

One thing about Southeast Asia that is really off-putting is the abundance of "sexpats" or sex tourists. For whatever reason, even in cases where it is clearly mutually consensual, it is still creepy to non-sexpats in that gets you under your skin kind of way. Of course it would be ignorant to assume every interracial couple here represents those sort of relationship dynamics (I mean look who's talking here), but usually when the nature of the relationship leans on the side of exploitative, you can kind of tell...

Anyways, encountering all this creepiness in Cambodia reminded me of an idea that some of my friends and I had a few years ago when we unwittingly stumbled into a Shanghai "hostess" bar and decided to hang around for a bit. The idea was that if there are all these men who come to Asia as sex tourists, there must also be a good amount of womenfolk back home who are wondering what "business trips" really entail. To fill this much needed information gap in our modern society, I propose SexpatAdvisory.com to save the day. Here's a preview of what's to come!


Everyone, meet Martin from Hungary. Hi Martin from Hungary, this is everyone!

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Question

Does it still count when you kind of save a man's life if you are kind of why his life was endangered in the first place? Kind of?

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

An Ode to Motodops

Love 'em or leave 'em, if you're in Phnom Penh without your own means of transportation, chances are you spend a lot of time on the back of motodops (basicially informal taxis via scooters). There is a mass over-abundance on the supply side of this equation as there are about five motodops waiting just for you at the corner of every single block in PP, and they are not the least bit shy about making you aware of their presence. Even the guards who work in my building complex double as motodops, and it can be quite confusing for guests to be chased by uniformed guards on motos. You soon realize that "Lady Moto!" is not really an affectionate nickname dedicated solely to you.

Though motos are perhaps not the safest way to get around, they are certainly the most plentiful, convenient and cheap. I take at least one every day to and from work, and usually again for lunch, Khmer class, yoga, or other very exciting aspects of my daily routine here.

Recently, I discovered that riding on a moto need not be just time spent testing your courage in the face of impending gore and death. As I was waiting for a friend to exchange some money at a bank, I decided it was an opportune time to practice my fledgling Khmer. So out of nowhere, while sitting on the scooter, I took my stab at conversation with my motodop. Conversation might be overstating it. I think "spoken word poetry" better captures the essence of my performance. It went something like this (but in Khmer, duh). A-hem:


“Bank”

“This is a bank!” [ed note: today I learned that I was actually saying "this that bank!" but whatever]

one
two
three
four
five
six
seven
eight
nine
ten!
eleven
twelve… (and so on and so forth)

“I would like to go watch a sporting event. What about you?

“This is a bank!”

“Cambodia is between Vietnam and Thailand.”

"Delicious!"

“English language, Chinese language, Khmer language, French language…”

“I would like to go. Possible or not?”

“Where do you want to go?”

"I want to eat."

“Do you like movies? Yes/no?”

“Please turn right.”

"Bank!"

At first he would answer me accommodatingly with a symphony of "baa baa's", yes yesses. But eventually he must have gotten bored or something because he just abruptly got off the moto and walked away until my friend came back. I was quite sad, but luckily for me a crowd of security guards and bank employees had gathered around to laugh at me, so I had plenty of other people to practice with.

Monday, May 5, 2008

Everyone has a story…

I met her and her 20 year-old son on the slow and shambly bus ride back from Kep to Phnom Penh, where we were all living. Her face was weathered but her eyes dignified. She was a strong Chinese woman. The boy had the excited and innocent curiosity of youth. He peppered me with a stream of questions, “How much money do you make? How are you able to work in America? Did you have to marry someone there? You are not married yet and you’re 25, why not?!? Do you have any brothers or sisters? Are they married?” I was happy to oblige him with the unexciting answers to these questions, mundane details of my life. To him they offered a glimpse into a very foreign but very famous world from someone he could, at least on a certain level, relate to. After all, I was also Chinese, a fellow ‘hua ren’ and in Cambodia at that. He could view me as his “older sister,” his jie jie. When I told him I had graduated from college he exclaimed “Wah! Ni zhen li hai!” -- “Wow! You are so super-capable!” I felt that he was sincerely proud of me, and I was touched.

The three of us spoke like that in Chinese, each with our particular accents and variations of the language. These subtle and not-so-subtle differences in our Mandarin revealed our common history through stories many worlds apart.

She told me about how she lost her family to the Khmer Rouge. She was not yet 30 then. They were living in Phnom Penh until the Khmer Rouge soldiers forced them to evacuate the city for the countryside provinces. It was an agrarian-Communist revolution, one which had no tolerance for indolent city-dwellers who contributed nothing to their equal society. During the mass exodus she was split from her parents and brothers and sisters. From what I could understand, she believes they were taken to jail. Carrying her two babies, she somehow managed to escape to the provinces and survive. She hasn’t seen her family since, and she is neither hopeful nor optimistic about their fates.

I asked her when she came to Cambodia, what part of China her “old family” was from. “Born and raised,” she asserted matter-of-factly, “born soon after my parents moved here from China.” In my mind I do the math – she is 60, so her parents would have moved here sometime in the late 40s. The significance of these numbers tell me of an unreal hyper-tragedy. To live in your home country in times of a world war that it is deeply involved in, to endure the bone-chilling atrocities committed against you, your family, and your neighbors by the invading Japanese; to subsequently escape your own country’s civil war, to escape the impending Communist takeover and a life you cannot or will not accept – to run away from all that and start anew, raise a family. To do that in Cambodia, a new land where you once again can begin to nourish hopes of establishing a normal way to live. To do all that, to survive all that, only to be greeted, less than thirty years later, with yet another oppressive regime that brings even more insufferable horrors and strife to you and your family. And in the process you lose your daughter, perhaps your wife or husband. And in the end? In the end perhaps you are tortured in prison, or taken to a field and slaughtered with the masses, never again to see your daughter, the one who manages to survive you. Perhaps.

This is the kind of story that not even one bone in my body can begin to comprehend. What does this woman see when she looks around her? Does she see more deeply than I, or is the surface all that her mind can take in? I cannot even guess. Yet her story does remind me of something I do know well. It reminds me of my own grandparents’ war and escape stories that I will never grow tired of hearing, as well as those of other families. It reminds me of what my mother once told me about history – everyone has a story. And here I see it’s true. Everyone—every family, every building, every road—has quite a story to share.

Sunday, April 6, 2008

O Hai, Hanoi!

I arrived in Hanoi last Thursday, after a would-be grueling twenty-six hours in transit. Thankfully, due to the glorious hospitality of Singapore Airlines (my dream-significant other objectified, or corpafied, rather) and the shining entertainment transit mecca that is the Singapore airport, my trip was pleasant and thoroughly tolerable.


The rooftop sunflower terrace for your relaxation and enjoyment at the Singapore airport.

I’ve been wanting to visit Hanoi for a while, as I’ve only heard wonderful things about the city from everyone I know who has been there. It did not disappoint. To me it was part Palermo, Sicily with its bustling markets and Catholic cathedrals, part French Concession, Shanghai with its wide boulevards and colonial architecture, and wholly unique. It is a fast-paced, dizzying city that charmed me instantly.

One of my favorite aspects of Hanoi was the over-abundance of food everywhere. My first night there I was completely exhausted from my travels, but was nonetheless still able to stumble out of the romantic courtyard of my guest house (the lovely Hotel des Artistes, a part of the Hanoi Cinemathique), and onto the busy street of Hai Ba Trung. There I discovered no less than 4 stations of street food within a 5 foot radius. I squatted down on the closest plastic stool I could find and was immediately presented with a steaming bowl of beef pho for my pre-bedtime snack. I think it cost around 25 cents, which is enough to buy maybe some air back home.

The famous Vietnamese sandwich- bahn mi.

Hanoi is also one of the only places that I have visited where I have felt almost paralyzingly disjointed. I owe it in most part to the language barrier, for none that I knew, nor my pathetic attempts at Vietnamese, got me anywhere near as far as my big dumb grin and a spectacle of charades-like hand motions.

Apparently my out-of-placeness was quite obvious. Even my friend Jake, who is tall, blonde, and basically looks like a Viking, noticed the frequency of staring contest challenges directed towards me. My hopes to blend in soon faded, and the realization quickly sunk in that I will always, for whatever reason, be a walking freakshow in Asia.


Hoan Kiem Lake at dusk is sheer perfection.


Hanoi: a study in historisis. Every street specializes in selling or doing something specific, like the stuffed animal street where I found this cuddly store.


The paper district in the Old Quarter.


Just taking a stroll through the Temple of Literature, the most luxuriously fitting place to read a book. Ever.